Sartorial Know-how15 January 2020

Buying Your First Bespoke Suit

The choice of the first bespoke suit is based on several criteria, but ultimately what should guide you is the concept of the versatility of a classic.

The tailored suit—also referred to as bespoke suit—is designed and entirely handmade by a tailor after a series of meetings with the customer wherein necessary measurements are taken and changes are made. The tailored suit differs from the made-to-measure one, in that the latter is based on a series of pre-defined models which are adapted to the customer’s needs and measurements.
The choice of the right tailored suit is certainly linked to several criteria, which can be summarily collected in the concept of occasion of use, on the basis of which obviously one will opt for a certain type of decisions, which in the case of a tailored suit are actually innumerable. These can in fact concern the type of fabric, the model of the dress, but also the linings, the type of pockets, the material of the buttons. In relation to the complexity— only apparent, because it is a pleasant choice—of this decision it is appropriate to make one’s choice in the most conscious way, especially in the case of the first tailored suit.

The choice must be made taking into consideration a greater versatility of the suit that will be packaged, so that it can be used on many more different occasions, especially in relation to the fact that a tailored suit has a very long duration within a wardrobe. The advice is therefore to choose a series of features that can allow one to define a classic suit. Choosing a single-coloured dress, in a “basic” shade like a midnight blue or an anthracite gray, could prove to be the wisest decision, especially if accompanied by the choice of an evergreen frescolana, or cool wool. These first two choices will make the outfit very versatile. Another option would be to choose a different type of classic—opting for a timeless pattern such as a houndstooth, preferably micro, or a Glen Plaid, which will make the outfit a timeless piece of one’s wardrobe and wearable on various occasions.

The choice relating to fit and single or double-breasted is certainly more personal but also linked to the type of physicality. The most obvious advantage of a tailored suit is represented by the fact that it can be perfectly adapted to your body, thus going to eliminate any defects so that the final silhouette is impeccable. Ultimately, what should always guide you when one is in the presence of a tailor is the concept of the versatility of a classic garment. The rest is in the skilled hands of the craftsman by your side.

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