Chino Trouser

Chinos are a classic sartorial staple, and for good reason. They’re incredibly versatile trousers that can be dressed up or down to suit any occasion. But what many don’t know is that there are two distinct types of chinos – low-rise and high waisted waistlines – which should be chosen according to the specific look you want to achieve. In this blog post, we’ll explore how these two different styles of sartorial trousers differ from each other, so you can make an informed decision when putting together your next outfit.

– High waisted chinos are sartorial trousers that offer a more polished, tailored look. With their higher waistline and tapered legs, they can be dressed up or down to suit any occasion.

– Low-rise chinos, meanwhile, are sartorial trousers that feature a lower waistline. They’re perfect for a more casual look, as they have a relaxed fit with wider leg openings. While low-rise chinos are usually made of a more or less light cotton twill, depending on whether they are designed for winter or summer, high-rise chinos give the possibility to range from cotton to wool or a way more sophisticated wool-cashmere blends. 

As a sartorial connoisseur, we would highly recommend our Sand Stretch Cotton Twill and Blue Navy Cotton Gabardine for the summer months as they offer the perfect balance of breathability and structure. These lightweight cotton fabrics are ideal for keeping you cool and comfortable while still providing a polished and put-together look.

When it comes to the winter months, chinos made from heavier fabrics are a great option for adding a touch of sophistication to your wardrobe. We at Barroco have put a great deal of effort into sourcing the finest fabrics and maintaining the highest level of sartorial quality in our chinos, ensuring that they are not only warm and durable, but also refined and elegant.

Dress Pleated Trousers

Pleated trousers always come with a high waist and can be used as a choice for a formal or even an informal look.
What does it depend on? Mainly on the styling. 

You can create a sophisticated casual-chic look by teaming it with garments that can play down the pleated trousers or by combining it with a single- or double-breasted blazer to make it a timeless outfit.

No matter what type of sartorial trousers you choose, it pays to invest in quality and craftsmanship that will last. Italian sartorial trousers are renowned for their exquisite attention to detail and construction, so if you’re looking for the best quality sartorial trousers then we have what you are looking for.

For gentlemen, menswear choices are the key to look classy and elegant. The most important point when it comes to trousers is the fit. In order to ensure success, the waistband should hug your waist firmly and the hip area should be comfortable without being too tight or too baggy. Moreover, trouser length must reach either just above, or cover the shoe but never hang over it. To make sure one has got it all right, made to measure trousers are highly recommended as they provide a perfect fit guaranteed.   With sartorial trousers, you can be sure that the quality fabrics, cut and craftsmanship will guarantee a garment of distinction.  So it’s worth investing in – they will undoubtedly last season after season.  Moreover it shows that you take pride in your appearance, not just for one occasion, but for all sartorial occasions from the boardroom to a special family gathering, sartorial trousers will have you dressed to impress!

As a sartorialist, you know that trousers are essential when it comes to achieving the perfect outfit.  Italian craftsmanship and an eye for detail are key in creating sartorial trousers that fit just right – practice makes perfect! By taking all the elements into consideration – from fit and fabrics to details and patterns – you can be sure that sartorial trousers will help you make a timeless style statement for any occasion.  So, no matter what sartorial occasion you have coming up, sartorial trousers are sure to make you look sharp and suave! 

Knowing what type of trouser you need to create your desired look occasion-wise is an invaluable skill for any professional wardrobe.

Attending a business meeting requires the right attire. To dress appropriately, consider muted colors such as navy, beige or gray in any shade to create your outfit. You can choose navy blue pleated trousers, paired with a blazer in the same blazer fabric, or a cream-coloured pleated trouser with a dark blue double-breasted jacket. Be sure to pair them with a classically styled shirt in breathable or performance fabrics such as cotton or light linen. The addition of elegant but comfortable shoes will give you an old-fashioned look. If, on the other hand, the meeting has a more informal setting, tailored chinos paired with a shirt with a button-down collar and a soft jumper give a casual but elegant look. High waisted chinos have become increasingly popular in the corporate world due to their ability to combine sartorial class with functionality.

Attending a party doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice your sartorial style and sense of comfort. For an easygoing yet stylish look, opt for a pair of sartorial trousers crafted with Italian craftsmanship and a classic camp-collar shirt to get the perfect sartorial style. You can either keep it simple with earthy tones such as navy, beige or brown, or make it more festive with bright colors like red and blue. Pairing it with something like tailored jeans or chino will help dress the look up while maintaining its comfortable vibe. Topped off with some fresh sneakers and accessories like sunnies and a hat will have you looking great without needing to sacrifice comfort.

No matter what sartorial trousers you decide on, it’s important to consider the fit and comfort of your chosen style. Be sure to invest in a quality pair that is made with impeccable craftsmanship and construction. After all, sartorial trousers are an investment piece meant to last for years – so make sure you choose wisely!
By taking the time to select sartorial trousers that fit your personality and personal style, you can be sure to achieve the perfect sartorial look for any occasion. Whether you’re dressing up or down, sartorial trousers crafted with Italian craftsmanship will provide an ideal blend of formality and practicality. With the right sartorial trousers in your wardrobe, you’ll never be caught off guard again.

Stay sartorial!

Single monks (in case you’re wondering, the name is inspired by a similar style of footwear worn by monks in the Middle Ages) have appealed to me more as I’ve matured and wearing them in place of Oxfords or Derbys will give you serious sartorial gravitas. Albeit in a subtle, attention-to-detail kind of way: these black single monks by Fabi offer a sleek silhouette when teamed with a navy or charcoal grey suit. If you’re combining them with a more casual outfit then plump for brown.

I’ve always been a fan of double monks, despite the general consensus in menswear circles that they’ve had their day – I disagree, but I will admit I wear them slightly less often but that’s probably because I’m spoilt for choice nowadays. Another style that crosses the smart casual divide with aplomb. They elevate a chalk stripe suit, just as much as they do chinos and a quarter-zip sweater. These brown suedes are more of a loafer/monk cross but I like them.

Loafers come in many guises and whilst I love a penny loafer as much as the next guy, I’ve found myself gravitating more and more towards the Belgian loafer of late  – a supremely comfortable hand-stitched piece of artisanship inspired by the original design crafted in Izegem, Belgium and characterised by their miniature bow at the top of the vamp. 

While I’m not the greatest fan of driving shoes worn nine-to-five, I do advocate them for the purpose for which they were originally designed – for driving.  In what seems like a former life now due to the pandemic, I travelled a lot. 

While I’m a fan of white premium leather sneakers, they are a devil to keep clean. Instead opt for something such as this vintage-style calfskin sneaker from Barracuda which exudes a beautiful burgundy patina – the fact it has a neutral-coloured crepe sole will mean it won’t show the marks nearly as much either. It will look just as at home worn with drawstring trousers and a cashmere hoody as it will with a soft-tailored suit worn with a white t-shirt.

If I had a penny for every wife or girlfriend who asked me which style of shoes she should buy for her other half, I’d be a rich man. I swear it. I almost always recommend a brown suede Chelsea boot, purely because of its versatility to be worn with smart and casual items alike. I’ve picked out a burgundy example here from Fabi, which features subtle brogue embellishments, just because it’s a slight twist on the traditional brown or black and neutral enough to wear with almost any outfit. I love them worn with a suit and cashmere roll neck just as much as I do with tailored jeans and a Trialmaster jacket.

Most men would be content with a suede chelsea boot, but I love a laced-up suede boot just as much as the great Agnelli did. He famously wore his with suits, as I have occasionally done in his honour, but I tend to pair mine more with dark jeans or beige cords with a chunky sweater topped off by a navy pea coat. In terms of sprezzatura, these are a no brainer.

As ubiquitous as they are, and somewhat unfairly referred to as a ‘schoolboy shoe’ by the unenlightened, there’s no denying the continued appeal of the unobtrusive, timeless Oxford. Besides, you can wear them to work as well as Weddings teamed with a Morning Suit. Just as much as you can pair them with black tie if you don’t happen to own velvet slippers or patent dress shoes. It’s the footwear equivalent of that old British catchphrase ‘it does what it says on the tin’, and certainly doesn’t shout about it.

We’re here to narrow down our choice of top 5 tie knots, and who better to sit down with than Serafin who sells some of the finest ties on the market, procured from luxurious Como silk.  But before we delve deep into the elaborate nature of tie knot styles themselves and which ones rock our boat, it’s important to consider that the collar shape of your shirt has a bearing on how well your knot will fit once fastened. While style is important, comfort should not be compromised.

So once you’ve fastened the top button of your shirt, you want to be able to slip 1 or 2 fingers inside the neck line comfortably. You don’t want it to be too loose or equally too tight. If you’re hyperventilating you know you’ve gone too far. The collar gap on the shirt is designed for a specific reason so if it’s too big then there’s a risk that the collars crossover in the middle which is a sartorial no no.

There is nothing worse than a tie that is too short and flies at half-mast. So how is the correct length achieved and is it ok to have the back blade hanging slightly lower than the front like you see classic menswear dudes flaunt at Pitti, as though they’ve tied them the wrong way on purpose? Yes, it’s definitely ok – it’s a nuance of sprezzatura after all. I’d caveat that by recommending sporting a slightly high-waisted trouser. That way, even though the thinner side of your tie will appear longer, the wider side will still align with the top of your waistband, just as it should. And remember, the most aesthetic knots always possess a characteristic dimple which adds depth to the tie. A little tip, as you’re pulling the knot tight you can manipulate the shape of the dimple with your index finger.

As for the knots, the choice is endless – in fact it’s no exaggeration to define tying a tie as an artform. Whether you plump for an even or uneven shape tied with a small or large knot, largely speaking they can be categorised into two groups: those that have a greater deal of flair such as The Prince Albert, which is asymmetrical and those like the Half Windsor, which are symmetrical.

Sartorialee’s 5 favourite tie knots:

1. The Old Bertie 

I was a dedicated follower of the Four-in-hand, that was until I discovered the innate charms of The Old Bertie, said to have been the knot-du-jour of the Duke of Windsor who went on to become King Edward VII – but was affectionately known as Bertie to friends and family. You could be forgiven for mistaking it for a Half Windsor on first inspection. It’s a more complex knot to tie than initially meets the eye but with a little practice perfecting one will become second nature. The reason it gets top billing from me is that it’s more substantial than a Four-in-hand yet provides equal opportunities for symmetry and it works really well for sitting just on your waistband rather than too far below it.

2.  Four-in-hand

Second in line comes the Four-in-hand, which derives its name from the four-horse carriage. The knot resembles the way the carriage driver would knot his reins thus keeping four horses in hand or four in hand. It was popularised by the Four In Hand driving club in London which was founded in 1856. Often maligned as being the school kid knot, it produces a nicely-sized knot (which is neither too big or too small) and yields that essential dimple us sartorialists strive for. The Four-in-hand is a very versatile knot – I particularly like it when it’s teamed with a tab collar shirt but it’s equally at home with knitted ties.

3.  The Prince Albert

Sometimes referred to as the Double Four-in-hand, The Prince Albert is an asymmetrical knot which builds on the foundations of a Four-in-hand instead of the Half Windsor. Despite the Royal connotations of its name, there is no evidence to suggest that Prince Albert, the Queen’s husband, ever actually wore one, so its provenance is shrouded in mystery. The beauty of this knot is that it can be as subtle or stand out as you like depending on how you adjust and tighten the knot. I’m conscious to always pull the knot quite tight though in order to achieve a shapely and polished appearance – revealing a more pronounced croissant-resembling overlapping curve effect.

4. The Oriental

Perhaps its appeal to me lies in its name (given my persuasion for all things South East Asian) but the The Oriental, aka The Small knot is in the top 5 of my tie knot armoury. For reasons unbeknown to me, its popularity has failed to make much of an impression in the western world. I suspect largely due to the fact that most men learn the four-in-hand when they first tie a tie at school. However, The Oriental is useful because it is similar in size, but is more symmetrical. If you’re a collar pin, collar bar or collar clip kind of guy then this is the knot for you – because the knot it yields is small enough to sit supremely snugly beneath.

5.  The Half Windsor

Symmetrical like the Windsor, but with a smaller knot – essentially a more modest version, although not as its name suggests, half the size. In fact it’s 75% of the size, making it a better proportional choice for taller men, as it uses less of the material than the Windsor. I’ve never been a fan of the former whose triangular knot I find a bit a bit staid and unwieldy but I make an exception for its cousin The Half Windsor. It’s a more formal style of knot better suited to a wider, heavier tie, which I think looks really rather at home with a spread-collar shirt – because its wider, chunkier knot fills the more substantial collar gap, particularly so when paired with a Morning Suit at weddings and other formal occasions. It also pairs nicely with point collars and button downs.

Editor’s Pick – 5 Silk Ties by Lee Osborne

Autumn/winter fires up my sartorial senses like no other time of the year. I literally cannot wait to burst open the vacuum packs that have been in hibernation at the back of my wardrobe for the past six months. One note of caution though before I begin. As warm and inviting as they may look, avoid the temptation of donning a bulky goose-down parka. It’s rare to find one that will flatter, instead of drawing comparisons with the Michelin man. A far more complimentary silhouette can be achieved by assembling lighter layers utilising pattern and texture to great effect.

These are the key items I turn to each year to add flair to my cold season ensembles.

How to layer a…

I’ve always considered the best staple pieces of menswear to be ones born out of functional necessity, and the bomber jacket is no exception. Steve McQueen was a big fan, and the bomber is as chic now as it was when he rocked up in the pitlane in 1971 film Le Mans – even more so in its rather suave suede incarnation. The original prototype was developed by Dobbs Industries strictly for the U.S. Air Force and Navy fighter pilots. It wasn’t until the late 1950s that the jackets first appeared in Europe. Revive McQueen’s swagger by pairing it with a chunky knit roll neck and cream cords, not forgetting the rubber-soled suede boots. And if you’re feeling bold, opt for yellow or rust goatskin suede such as these two great expressions from Atacama. With the exception of a patterned scarf, like this Arcuri diamond repeat-pattern blue wool and yak scarf, keep the remaining components of your look monochromatic.

Done badly, you’ll resemble a nerdy school professor. Worn correctly, corduroy will free you from every preconceived stereotype as well as keeping you stylish and warm this winter. I for one am pleased that Corduroy is back in vogue this season as it’s one of my winter go-tos. Corduroy is a cotton fabric that is twisted into thick ribs that are both hard wearing and soft.  Pair this Chelsea jacket from Vicenza-based outfitter Cruna with Claudio Mariani’s Gurkha tailored denims

The holy grail of navy suiting, the chalk stripe is the height of cooler clime sartorial elegance. Simply pop a cashmere roll neck underneath it and a suede gilet (see more below) such as this one from Atacama on top and you’ll need no further accoutrements to stave off the chill. Again, brown suede boots that go slightly against the formal grain will gain you serious sartorial aplomb and have the great Signor Agnelli’s approval from above.

The gilet for me is the unsung hero of A/W tailoring – it’s a garment shape that has been around for centuries which takes its name from the French word for cardigan. Its evolution can be traced back to the jerkin, favoured by European peasants in the 15th- Century. Worn as a sleeveless jacket, it was usually crafted out of leather designed to keep the wearer warm while not restricting freedom of movement. This is still the gilet’s main appeal today, but I would argue its versatility is equally important. It looks just as at home over a suit as it does over a sweater or cardigan. Atacama’s light and dark suede versions have got your back here.

Scarves work wonderfully well as a constituent part of winter layering. My collection of scarves is bordering on my obsession with ties for the amount of them I own. I even wear linen ones in the summer. The scarf is the proverbial icing on the cake when we speak about winter layering and fundamental to pulling the whole look together. Much the same as jacket and tie combinations, stick to patterned scarves with monochromatic outfits so that the scarf is the star of the show. Likewise if your outfit’s busy make sure your scarf isn’t to avoid a pattern overload. Take this patterned gem from Arcuri as my case in point, likewise this delectable double-sided wool and silk offering from Sèra Fine Silk. For outfits featuring multiple checks or stripes plump for monochromatic versions, even better if they happen to be textured or subtly patterned like this Fumagalli 1891 wool and silk scarf.

A feature that we can find declined in every black item of clothing, from the leather jacket with a rock touch to the more formal trousers, passing through preppy-inspired Oxford shoes. Every man owns a black garment or accessory and, without a doubt, investing in a new high-quality fashion piece in this color, especially if artisanal and Made in Italy, is always a good idea. Especially when it comes to timeless garments, real essentials of the male wardrobe that build, and will always do, the foundations of personal style. Looking for Black Friday clothing deals? Nothing better then, than opting for the best of handcrafted black menswear in the week of Black Friday 2020: here is a sophisticated selection to take advantage of during the discounts.

To make the most of it, before the temperatures drop dramatically, here is a selection of strictly handcrafted leather garments and accessories that embody the seasonal spirit. Of course, in this Autumn / Winter 2020-21 season, among the essential colors of the wardrobe, we can find all the natural shades that surprises us between October and December, and which cannot be missing: those of the golden and bronze leaves that cover the trees and then the streets, but also all the earthy nuances. Whether it’s a classic tan brown or a more dusty sienna color, these are the colors on which you can’t go wrong during the autumn season, particularly enhanced on leather garments.

This safari jacket in tan lamb suede by Atacama is characterized by a simple silhouette, thanks to its symmetrical cut, but also by a particularly warm and spicy tone, which makes it unique and immediately recognizable. It has been enriched with four front pockets, a suede belt, barrel cuffs and horn buttons. It was tailor-made in Italy, with processing techniques handed down for generations.

A sense of adventure and class come together in this Drifter leather backpack, in an elegant earth tone. Handmade according to the Italian tradition from tanned leather, luxuriously soft and resistant, this bag has a classic and contemporary look at the same time, also thanks to the perfect combination with the robust and refined metal buckles on the outside. The main compartment closes with a strong hook and loop closure to ensure that none of your personal items inside get lost during any stage of a journey.

Comfort and refinement can really go hand in hand, and these dark brown tassel loafers are proof of that. Inspired by the most iconic models of all time, these luxurious shoes have a unique and impossible to pass unnoticed look. What’s more, it’s the little details that make these moccasins truly eye-catching in design, from the woven tassels to the Adler stitching, which add the perfect finishing touch. Ideal for special events and informal occasions.

In this backpack by Athison, leather and cotton of the highest quality give life to an extremely sophisticated and avant-garde accessory. 1,056 cotton threads tied one by one form the basis of a unique and inimitable fabric: the cotton is waxed with potato flour starch, in line with the production processes that prefer the use of natural and non-toxic materials. The leather is vegetable-tanned and expertly worked by Tuscan tanneries.

It was much easier for our forefathers of course, who donned suits 5-days a week and hardly gave it a second thought. Thankfully for them, the term business casual had not even been invented. But as our employers are loosening the knots of their ties all the more, the question remains: how do you rock up to the office (or perhaps — more topically Zoom Call — when working from home) looking less formal, but still sartorially-savvy?

In terms of jackets that exemplify this dress code, it has to be the patch-pocket variety. Any other style screams suit jacket masquerading as a separate. Salernitan tailor Melillo 1970 have two which fit the bill here: their navy wool blazer is the timeless option, or if you hanker after something with a bit more texture and subtle dogtooth pattern then plump for the Pied de Poule with button-flap patch pockets.

There has never been a better excuse to embrace the drawstring trouser, they were positively made for business casual — particularly when they’re as chic as those on offer from Neapolitan trouser maker Sartoria Corrado. You really cannot go wrong with any of the colorways — whether you stay safe with beige or light grey or inject a bit of color into the proceedings with a playful burgundy. Don’t rule out corduroy either. If you’re more of a Lapo Elkann statement kind of guy, I dare you to embrace the camo-print single pleats — just make sure the jacket is plain.

Trainers can most definitely be incorporated into a business casual get up, so long as they are of the premium leather variety in an off-white or navy — and most definitely not the type you go to the gym wearing. But if you really can’t lower yourself to the sneaker, then brown suede loafers or derbies are the fail-safe options — plain leather is a tad too dressy still.

For scarves, more muted jacket tones cry out for playful patterned scarves to really pop. Stefano Cau’s exquisite Habotai silk scarves are the icing on the sartorial cake here. Serà Fine Silk and Fumagalli have intricate designs aplenty too which will make you the talk of the town. The former’s paisley and medallion styles are totally on point, as are the latter’s intricate Kashmir-inspired designs.

Be sure to trade up the briefcase for something a little less stiff and starchy. The DUST’s sleek leather backpack fits the bill perfectly here. As will any of Athison’s more malleable fabric buckle-up bags.

If ditching your tie is too much to bear, and who could blame you for that, make it a less-pretentious bobbly knitted silk from Fumagalli or one of G. Inglese’s rugged shantung offerings (a highly-textured fabric that you can learn more about in the Introductory Guide to Italian Silk Ties).

It’s not surprising that even post-summer-holidays, and even throughout a pandemic — there’s still that undeniable desire for a weekend away. How do you organize yourself when a short, last-minute trip comes up? It’s all about the bag. Elegant and effortless, here is a selection of handcrafted bags, versatile for every need, that will make your little escape a breeze.

This backpack by the Villadossola-based Athison (who have been active since 1913!) is on offer in various colors —from the most classic to the most modern and sporty. Vegetable-tanned leather is manufactured in Tuscany, combined with waxed cotton in potato flour starch, all in line with production processes that prefer the use of natural and non-toxic materials. Compact, it allows you to comfortably carry your laptop to work with every accessory, and to later carry on with essential outfits for the weekend. The zipper on the back allows direct access to the backpack, ensuring practicality and protecting its contents from intrusive hands.

Lovers of vintage and timeless style — this is the must-have bag for you. With its impeccable workmanship, the leather backpack by The Dust has all the charm of an item handed down from one generation to another, thanks to the high quality of the leather with which it was made. The double pockets on the front add an element of comfort. Inside are multiple compartments to carry both the necessary for the office, as well as clothing and products for the weekend. It’s the perfect balance of old-fashioned sophistication and contemporary flair.

If you are not a fan of rigid bags, but not even too soft ones, Davide Albertario‘s Duffle in Genuine Leather is probably the middlegroun you’re seeking out for your weekends out of town. Crafted in burnt brown, and suitable for combining with many other shades, it presents a semi-rigid structure and a tapered shape with zip closure. It’s a bag with a classic aesthetic but with a modern allure given by the visible beige stitching and palladium-colored finishes. It’s made (of course) by hand, it also has an inner lining in pure cotton, with a tartan motif.

The perfect travel bag for gentlemen with an evergreen style is this Leather Weekender by Athison, ideal for short stays. Why is it so sophisticated? Simply because the small imperfections and the different shades of color for each of them, make them absolute unique pieces thanks to the natural raw materials with which the calf hides have been tanned. Dyed with non-toxic water-based colors and woven with thin copper threads, this bag will age over time, changing its appearance and showing its more exclusive and handcrafted side.

Esquire deemed him to be “the best-dressed man in the history of the world”, and it’s not hard to see why. Across his lifetime, Gianni Agnelli subverted the rules of fashion creating a very personal style, composed of a fascinating mix of audacity and innate elegance. In one example, he tended to combine suede boots with formal suits and always showed off the watch on the shirt’s cuff.

Looking to be inspired by Gianni Agnelli’s iconic outfits? Here are some tips to follow.

Gianni Agnelli loved wearing tailored suits, custom-made for him by the best tailors in the world. He mostly opted for soft colors, and preferred gray for the day and navy for the evening.

When it comes to fabrics, the “Lawyer” often sported pinstripes, suits in Prince of Wales or Solaro, a unique, medium wool fabric ideal for mid-seasons.

For his boat trips to Capri, Gianni Agnelli preferred casual but refined outfits. The garment par excellence was the long-sleeved polo shirt, usually made of linen or pipeline with mother-of-pearl buttons. The colors, needless to say, were often blue and white.

As for the trousers, in addition to the classic linen models, Gianni Agnelli was a big fan of jeans, which he had learned to get comfortable with while in the US. He wore both very tight ones — in pure seventies style — and then wider cuts, such as the classic Levi’s 501 model.

However, it didn’t arrive on European soil until the 1100s. During the time of the Second Crusade, 2,000 skilled silk weavers from Constantinople (now Istanbul) descended upon Italy and began setting up their businesses. Silk is the overwhelming go to fabric for gentlemen’s ties. Not only is it the strongest natural fibre, it’s one of the most durable fabrics out there, possessing a high tensile propensity which allows it to withstand a substantial amount of tension as well as an inherent elasticity allowing it to retain its natural shape.

Silk ties come in many shapes and guises of course as the items below will testify. Some you will be more familiar with than others. I’m going to run you through the basic rules, and how best to wear them. I’ll guide you through which styles suit formal and which styles tend to pair better with more casual attire.

Bear in mind that brighter colours and bolder patterns (such as those in the below image by Serà Fine Silk) are generally considered to be more casual, whereas smooth textures and darker tones have a more formal connotation. Much like the choice of a suit, parallels to the choice of tie can likewise be drawn: for instance, a richly-patterned, woollen patch pocket blazer is less formal than a plain suit in fine worsted, so a highly-textured shantung grenadine tie with a bold club stripe is less formal than say, a plain navy repp tie.

It’s important to consider the nature of the silk fabric. For instance, does it have a smooth or rough texture? This is a vital consideration as it impacts the way light is absorbed through the fabric (particularly so in a silk knit where you can literally see the light of day filter through it’s tiny pores) or reflected on a more shiny silk. There are 4 basic rules to keep in mind: tone, colour, texture and pattern. The importance of texture cannot be underestimated in the selection of a tie – partly because it is the most subtle and therefore easier to miss.

Printed silk ties are created either on screens (utilizing a stencil pattern) or large-format ink jet printers which transfer designs on to what is typically a twill weave. They allow almost untold realms of creative possibilities and have been used to great effect historically by the likes of Hermès and Ferragamo to name but two. Stefano Cau’s Wild Ducks printed cashmere tie is a particularly fine example of the art, as is his Rich Paisley Double Face (with two different patterns on either side) in a lush debonair shade of turquoise with navy and egg-yolk yellow motifs inspired by 50s Americana.

Likewise Silvio Fiorello’s red and blue paisley design which employs a rather unique special silver metallic screen printing effect, designed to catch the light, adds an extra touch of luxury and sophistication. Having said that paisley is considered slightly less formal because of its playful swirling patterns so straddles the smart casual divide supremely well.

Serà Fine Silk and Cordone 1926 have beautiful examples of printed medallion ties. Sera’s light pink version is a divine partner with a light blue shirt (cotton for business, chambray for casual) and navy suit while the latter’s unregimented offerings (especially the polka-dotted) are a beautifully contemporary statement piece if you deem the former a touch too elaborate.

Otherwise referred to as raw silk or dupioni silk — Shantung features irregularities and knobs from raw silk threads providing a more casual look and feel that looks fantastic with the right outfit. It derives its name from the Shantung Province of Eastern China, which is sometimes also referred to as Shandong. G.Inglese’s 5-fold hand-refined 100% brown silk tie is a great case in point here and I love the dainty little mother of pearl button stitched on the back.

Originally produced in Italy, Grenadine is a weave characterised by its light, open, gauze-like feel, woven on traditional jacquard looms. Nowadays, only one fully-fledged jacquard operation remains, that of Fermo Fossati in Como which has now has a monopoly on such things. Sadly, jacquard weaving is a dying art nowadays which makes it all the more appealing to the connoisseur. Stefano Cau has an enviable collection of the very finest exponents of the loom, particularly this navy/ecru striped number.

A knitted tie possesses an admirable three-dimensional quality which adds great texture to an outfit. Fumagalli’s wonderfully-named Mosaic Crunchy Effect tie is my pick in this particular category. Similarly to its cousin Shantung, a knit exudes a more relaxed vibe. The fact that they’re made from a high-twisted silk yarn means they’re crinkle resistant, so they have the added benefit of being great for travel. Compared to the average silk tie, people tend to take note when you wear one — mainly due to the fact that they remain one of the lesser-spotted varieties.

I tend to let the back blade of my tie hang loosely behind the front — and never thread it through the keeper loop as I find it too regimented. The tip of the tie should always sit comfortably below your waistband — don’t fall for the schoolboy error of tying your tie too short as the blank void it leaves across your stomach is not a good look.

It’s all well and good having an amazing tie, but how you tie it is of equal importance. My advice would be to keep the knot classic and simple. My personal favourite is the four-in-hand which I pretty much wear exclusively as I love the shape and the dimple it creates below the knot. But it’s ok to try something different every now and then with something like The Prince Albert — if you want to stand out but in a subtle attention-to-detail kind of way. I would avoid anything too intricate as it will look like you’re trying too hard, which goes against the whole notion of sprezzatura (see my previous column) when you’re supposed to be.

Most of the year I tend to err on the side of 3-fold, untipped, hand-rolled lighter-weight ties, but as we’re approaching autumn it’s ok to break out the odd 7-fold tie – a style which came to prominence in the late 19th century. In some quarters it’s held up as the pinnacle of luxury neckwear thanks its abundant use of fine silk and the intensive manual labour required to create each one. Cordone 1956 have rendered some rather wonderful examples of this style. I’m particularly fond of their Diamante collection, it’s so devilishly difficult to chose between them though, but I’m drawn to the rakish charm oozing from its Green and Azure colourway. Teamed with a double breasted cashmere blazer, it’s a real case of Duke of Windsor eat your heart out.