Fabric Discovery26 January 2023

Fabric: All About Popeline

In this article, we will take a detailed look at popeline fabric, including its history, characteristics, classification, and types of weave patterns. Get ready to dive deep into the world of popeline and learn why it's a favorite choice among textile manufacturers and fashion designers alike.

Shirting fabrics using the cloth-weave technique are mainly made from cotton, linen or blended fibers of these two fabrics. Canvas weave gives the fabric greater resistance to wear and tear, making it ideal for everyday wear and tear. Some examples of cloth-armored shirting fabrics are:

Popeline
Oxford
Twill
Chambray
Denim

In this article we will look in detail at the first of these fabrics, Poplin.

Discovering the Origins of Popeline Fabric: From Papal Roots to a Fashion Must-Have

Popeline fabric is very popular in the textile industry, with a long history of use in shirt making. The origin of the name Poplin comes from the word “papalina,” a fabric produced in the papal city of Avignon, France in the 14th century. The fabric was often made from heavy cottons or wools and in fact was intended for garments typically used in winter periods. Later the British imported it to improve the finishing and make it a durable, cool, and firm fabric. The characteristics given to it made it versatile and highly successful and popular in the clothing world.

Weaving Popeline Fabric: Understanding the Number of Warp and Weft Threads

Popeline is generally woven with a greater number of warp and weft threads than other fabrics, which causes the weft to be very fine and compact.  The exact number of warp and weft threads used to create popeline fabric can vary depending on the manufacturer and the specifications you want to achieve from the finished fabric. In general, poplin has more warp than weft threads. This results in a strong, well-stretched fabric.

Often the number of warp threads is double the number of weft threads, but this is not always the case. In general, manufacturers use different combinations of warp and weft threads to create a popeline fabric with specific properties, such as softness, strength, luster, and so on.

How is it classified?

The system for defining different types of popeline fabric can vary depending on the fabric manufacturer. In general, popeline fabrics can be identified using a number of characteristics such as the type of yarn used, the number of threads per square inch (indicating the fineness of the fabric), and the density of the weave.

In some cases, popeline fabrics can be classified according to their heaviness, such as “Light Popeline” or “Heavy Popeline” In other cases, they may be classified according to their surface finish, such as “Glossy Popeline” or “Matt Popeline.”

Manufacturers often use a numbering system to identify their poplin fabrics based on the number of threads per square inch (Threads/sq cm). The number of threads per square inch indicates the fineness of the fabric and the number of threads used to create a given area of fabric. The higher the number of threads per square inch, the finer the fabric.

Celestial White Micro Check Double Twisted Popeline Shirt Celestial White Micro Check Double Twisted Popeline Shirt

Barroco

Celestial White Micro Check Double Twisted Popeline Shirt

208 (TaxFree: 170)
Out of Stock

Popeline fabric can be classified according to the number of threads per square inch (Threads/cmq). The number of threads per square inch indicates the fineness of the fabric and the number of threads used to create a given area of fabric. The higher the number of threads per square inch, the finer the fabric.

For example, a Popeline fabric with a thread count per square inch of 120/1 is considered a high quality fabric because it contains 120 weft threads and 120 warp threads per square inch. This gives the fabric greater fineness and luster than a Popeline fabric with a thread count per square inch of 80/1.

In general, the higher the number, the finer and smoother the fabric. A high number of threads per square inch is considered an indication of fabric quality; the more threads per inch, the higher the quality of the finished garment. 

There are fabrics with a different number of weft threads than the number of warp threads. These fabrics are called irregular weft ratio fabrics.

Weft ratio refers to the ratio of the number of weft threads to the number of warp threads in a fabric. In a regular weft ratio fabric, the number of weft threads is equal to the number of warp threads, creating a regular, symmetrical weave.

In a fabric with an irregular weft ratio, the number of weft threads is different from the number of warp threads, creating an irregular and asymmetrical weave. For example, a fabric with a weft ratio of 2/1 has 2 weft threads for every warp thread.

These fabrics are designed to create unique textures and aesthetic effects. In general, fabrics with an irregular weft ratio can create more pronounced weft effects, greater dimensional stability, and greater strength than fabrics with a regular weft ratio. In addition, they can be used to create fabrics with interesting weft effects, such as fabrics with relief effects or fabrics with pleat effects.

Blue White Micro Check Double Twisted Popeline Shirt Blue White Micro Check Double Twisted Popeline Shirt

Barroco

Blue White Micro Check Double Twisted Popeline Shirt

208 (TaxFree: 170)
Out of Stock
Anti-crease Blue White Orange Stripes Popelin Shirt Anti-crease Blue White Orange Stripes Popelin Shirt

Barroco

Anti-crease Blue White Orange Stripes Popelin Shirt

208 (TaxFree: 170)
Out of Stock

Types of weave patterns: regular or irregular.

There are two types of fabrics: those with regular weave and those with irregular weave.

Regular weave fabrics are characterized by an equal number of warp and weft threads, creating a regular and symmetrical weave. These types of fabrics can be classified by the number of threads per square inch (Threads/sq cm), such as 120/1 or 100/1, indicating the density of the fabric and the fineness of the fabric. The higher the number of threads per square inch, the finer the fabric. This thread count per square inch is an important indicator for the quality of the fabric and its intended use, the higher the thread count the finer and lighter the fabric will be, therefore more suitable for formal or luxury garments.

Popeline fabric belongs to the category of irregular weave fabrics since it is characterized by a different number of weft threads than the number of warp threads, creating an irregular and asymmetrical weave. This type of fabric can be classified by the ratio of the number of weft threads to the number of warp threads, such as 120/1 in weft and 60/1 in warp.

Facts and figures

Lightweight and breathable:
Allows for increased comfort and ease of movement during warm weather
Reduces the risk of overheating and sweating
Creates a crisp and refreshing look, perfect for summertime attire

Softness and comfort:
Provides a pleasant feel against the skin
Increases overall wearing comfort
Allows for ease of movement
Enhances the overall look and feel of the clothing item

Easy to iron:
Saves time and effort in maintaining the appearance of the clothing
Creates a polished and put-together look

Good resistance to wear and maintains shape after multiple washings:
Increases the longevity of the clothing item
Reduces the need for frequent replacement
Saves money in the long run
Maintains a polished and presentable appearance even after multiple wears and washings

Suitable for both formal and casual occasions:
Can be dressed up or dressed down
Provides versatility and flexibility in wardrobe choices
Allows for easy transition from day to night

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